The Sun’s Chromosphere

About 45 years ago, when I was a young physics undergraduate, I spent a summer at the Royal Greenwich Observatory’s then base in Herstmonceux. I actually got to stay in Herstmonceux castle for a couple of months. Which sounds very exciting, except my room was actually a small cell in the attic. It was a small price to pay to have the privilege of accessing the wonderful range of telescopes and other equipment that they had.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herstmonceux_Castle

The problem I was given was to develop a computer model of the sun’s corona.

The surface temperature of the sun is about 6,000K. As it’s atmosphere extends out into space, you would expect it to become colder and colder. But the sun’s corona does something different. In fact it heats up to millions of degrees before eventually cooling off. This seems to be quite contrary to the laws of thermodynamics that say that heat should always flow from hot to cold. But in the case of the sun’s corona, the opposite seems to be happening. Even today, I don’t think this process is fully understood. The most popular theory 45 years ago was that it was something to do with the sun’s magnetic field.

I did develop some models, although I think it’s safe to say these were not my greatest academic success. I predicted that the corona was composed of 90% lead. Even then I doubted that this was entirely correct. Fortunately for the world I never went on to become a professional astronomer.

Almost all of the energy that we see here on earth comes from the sun’s “surface”, it’s “photosphere”. Because of the huge density and temperature at the core, it takes about half a million years for the energy generated at the core to perform a random walk to the surface, and then a further nine minutes to get from the surface to us. (The exceptions are solar neutrinos, which barely even notice that the sun exists.)

All the pictures of the sun that I’ve ever posted are of the photosphere. To take pictures of the photosphere you need a really good filter. One that blocks 99.99% of the sun’s radiation at all wavelengths. These are relatively cheap. You can buy a sheet of filter material for a few pounds.

With this filter in place, you can see the sun’s disk and any sunspots that might be present, but that’s about all. In order to explain how we can get better pictures, and more information, we need a little bit of physics.

The sun is mostly a big ball of hydrogen. Hydrogen atoms are as simple as an atom can be, with a single proton at the centre and a single electron in orbit. Left to itself, the electron will occupy the ground state in the atom. It can gain energy, either by absorbing a photon of light, or through thermal excitation – basically bumping into other atoms.

An H atom doesn’t stay excited for very long before the orbit decays back to the ground state. When it does so it emits a single photon of light at a very specific frequency that is called “Hydrogen Alpha”.

This picture is more of a classical representation of an atom. Both the proton and the electron should by fuzzy. And the scale is all wrong. If the proton was the size of a tennis ball, then the electron should be an infinitesimal spec of dust a couple of miles away. But just ignore all that.

The sun’s core generates electromagnetic energy with a very specific distribution of frequencies called “black body radiation”. It may seem odd to describe the brightest object in the sky as a black body, but the name comes from the study of the surface of furnaces that are perfectly black on the inside. The need to explain the measured intensity of frequencies in black body radiation was what led Max Planck to his famous hypothesis of quantisation of energy, but that’s a whole different story.

When this black body radiation from the core reaches the surface it encounters the hydrogen in the photosphere. Most of the energy passes straight through, but when the bits at the H Alpha frequency encounter an H atom, it gets absorbed and raises it’s electron to the first excited state. The atom then decays and emits a photon of energy, again at the H alpha frequency, but it does so in a random direction, some of which is back into the core. The photosphere therefore appears darker at the H alpha frequency compared to all nearby frequencies.

Of course there are other excited states of hydrogen and other trace elements in the photosphere. These all lead to dark bands in the sun’s spectrum. But H alpha is the most important example. The important thing to note is that the photosphere is very bright at a wide range of frequencies, except at H alpha.

In between the corona, at millions of degrees, and the photosphere, at 6000K, there is a thin layer of hydrogen called the Chromosphere. This is hotter than the surface but not as hot as the corona. It’s typical temperature is about 20,000K. This is hot enough to excite H atoms by thermal means which then decay via H alpha radiation. So the Chromosphere actually generates the very frequency that is absent in the photosphere. It is also close enough to the photosphere to share many of its characteristics.

All you have to do is isolate the H alpha frequency and you’ll get a detailed image of the chromosphere and many of the surface features that it replicates. The only catch is, these filters are extremely expensive – of the order of thousands of pounds. There are specialist telescopes with these filters built in, but they’re equally expensive. You can get cheaper, wide band, H alpha filters for nebula photography, but they just won’t do for solar imaging. (I’ve tried – you just get a red picture of the sun.)

If you want to use a reflector telescope, like mine, you also have to block out most of the other energy from the sun, particularly infrared, before it hits the telescope mirror and starts heating it up. Small aperture refractors are best.

It’s also best to use a mono camera. Most colour cameras are at their most sensitive in green light. H alpha is red.

There is another option. There’s a frequency called calcium K. This is in the ultraviolet and leads to spooky pictures like this.

https://www.sciencephoto.com/media/156348/view/calcium-k-sun

But, you guessed it, calcium K filters are even more expensive.

So if I wanted to take nice pictures of the chromosphere I’d have to buy a new telescope, a new camera and an expensive filter. All to take pictures of just the sun. It would have to be a very serious hobby for me even to consider it. So next time you see an amateur picture of solar flares and detailed surface features, just consider how much effort and expense has gone into it (and how much science has gone into making it possible).

https://astropixels.com/sun/2012/sunha12aug06-01.html

Which Moon Pic do you Prefer?

Here are two very similar pictures of the moon. One taken with my 6 inch Skywatcher reflector and a Lumix GF7 camera. The other taken with the Seestar S50 2 inch refractor.

Do you have a preference? It might not be easy to decide as I’ve tried to make their size, orientation, contrast and colour as similar as possible. Here’s a higher resolution version. (I recommend that the high res pics are viewed on something a bit bigger than a phone.)

https://mega.nz/file/Q5J0xZpJ#R3Cr1oE-uMUuLBEs7Z8XLaDz6fhTS8WcgRQT1k5Sfk0

I’ll come back to this later. To maintain the air of mystery and suspense, I won’t say yet which picture came from which telescope.

I was hoping to show some splendid pictures of the total lunar eclipse from Friday morning. It was a beautiful clear sky all night with the forecast to remain fine. The moon was full and looked absolutely glorious, all ready to move into the Earth’s shadow. I had both telescopes set up and ready to go (even though my back pain was giving me hell). The S50 was going to do time lapse movies, while the Skywatcher would record high resolution pics. Then, with ten minutes to go, this happened…

And here’s a short movie of the clouds doing their thing, getting in the way.

https://mega.nz/file/d94gEYAR#avI8f17wZWyNmsQcY_yk6zEAGqWwSyGBJx7U-8aRu_Q

I waited for about half an hour, hoping that the cloud was just temporary, but it just got thicker and thicker, until the moon was completely obscured. So I put all the equipment away and came back inside. Just after dawn, when the moon had set, the sky cleared again. If I was so inclined, I might suspect that someone was trying to tell me something.

Here are some pics from those who were more fortunate.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cr42k4qpr7go

Still, we had some lovely clear nights over the last week or so. I managed to enlarge my set of waxing moon phases. Adding in some from January, it now looks fairly complete.

On the night of the thinnest crescent moon, I also took an overexposed shot to reveal the part of the moon in shadow.

And on the night of March the 7th to 8th I took one of those comparison photos that shows the terminator moving overnight.

https://mega.nz/file/14Y0yZoZ#TN-ONWQ_APudub341L5jjr5Hnk73Yut0EyRSNqvYV8E

The waxing moon is the easy bit though. It appears from early evening and usually means going out either just before, or just after, tea. The waning moon is very different. It’s OK getting the initial stages, but the later crescents mean being out early in the morning close to dawn. Let’s see how dedicated I can be.

Now back to the telescope comparison at the top. Personally, I can’t tell a lot of difference between the two when viewed on a web page. However, when you zoom in, the difference becomes more obvious.

https://mega.nz/file/4lwjVDZS#s_2lEd2iIk4RbKo7wOeVH0gzIPrjMsW9db28WiYD1uA

In both cases, the right hand picture comes from the larger, six inch, scope. The close up illustrates the much higher resolution that the larger scope is capable of. This is what I’ve found using the smaller smart telescope over the last couple of months. It’s absolutely fantastic for just putting outside and telling it to go take a picture of something. Incredibly easy. It produces amazing results for publishing on the web. But take a closer look and its pictures are all a bit fuzzy. It wets the appetite, making you want to try to do something better.

The larger scope can produce much more detailed pictures, but it isn’t “smart”. It takes a lot of fiddling about to keep it on target and to keep taking images.

Oddly enough, the manufacturer of the smart scope also supplies a lot of higher resolution, and much more expensive, equipment. If this is a clever marketing strategy then I have to say it’s working. I’m looking at their more expensive gear. This little box of tricks, for example, can turn almost any scope into a smart scope.

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-cameras/zwo-asi2600mc-air-wireless-smart-camera.html

But just look at the price! I think I might have to save up my pocket money for that one.

And finally, this morning’s nearly full moon.

https://mega.nz/file/Z1oEAQya#CVKKdHK0V3Gy9I7Y2iSYfFg1eLB6xRdpuc5g1755iv8

A Cluster of Clusters

Look south just after sunset today and you’ll see the unmistakable constellation of Orion.

Follow Orion’s belt left and down and you find Sirius, the brightest star in the sky. Sirius is so bright for two reasons. First, it really is a bright star, shining some 25 times brighter than the sun. Second, Sirius is on our cosmic doorstep. At a mere 8 light years away it’s one our next door neighbours in space.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sirius

Sirius is surrounded in our view of the sky by a bunch of light smudges. These are open clusters of stars. A closeup map from Stellarium shows a few of the brighter ones. Many of these are visible with binoculars.

And here are a few of the brightest ones: M46, M47 and M50.

I particularly like M46 because it includes a bright orange foreground star, 140 Pup, a red giant 700 light years away. This contrasts with the main cluster which is nearly 5,000 light years away.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Messier_46

Open star clusters tend to show mainly young, bluish stars. They’re usually regions of recent star formation where the constituents haven’t yet dispersed. We mostly see the brightest members which tend to be blue-white in colour. Their dimmer, yellow-red companions are outshone by these blue-white stars.

M46 has another surprise though. It also includes a planetary nebula, shown near the top left of this photo. It goes by the charming name of NGC 2438.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NGC_2438

Again, this is a foreground object about 1,300 light years away. It’s not a true member of the cluster. Planetary nebulae have nothing to do with planets. They just look a bit like planets. They’re the remnants of old stars that have blown off their outer atmosphere and are now illuminated by the remaining core at their center. Given that this is an older star, it should now be obvious that it can’t truly be part of the open cluster M46.

On the opposite side of the sky, I’m still stacking photos of M13, the Great Globular Cluster in Hercules. This is three night’s worth of photos stacked. I’m not sure if adding any more to this will improve the quality or not. Only one way to find out…

All photos taken with my Seestar S50.

Galaxies and Stuff

I’ve been experimenting with a relatively cheap dedicated astrophotography camera, the Svbony SC311. It’s a self contained camera with wifi and a dedicated phone app, making it very easy to take pictures through a telescope and store them on a removable flash drive. For reasons I won’t go into, I probably won’t be keeping it. However, before sending it back, I did manage to snap a couple of images of the sun and the moon. These are among the most detailed pictures that I’ve taken to date. Here are a couple of samples.

https://mega.nz/file/M1AlTZqR#4ew3LQNWOBuV38Qpnag2o8WDCB7R3YWxlFWqweeEhsU

https://mega.nz/file/xwxEmAAI#ME0g9G-HPXL5yCiY7a0sUkpiMXGlihazm9GIM4Kw3Aw

The trouble with this camera is that, while it takes great photos of the sun and the moon, it takes absolutely terrible photos of everything else. Don’t ask me why. I haven’t got a clue.

For deep sky images I’m now almost totally reliant on my new “smart” telescope, the Seestar S50. It’s just so easy to set it up and them come back inside and do something else, or even just go to bed. This is M51, the “Whirlpool” galaxy. It’s the result of about two hours of stacked images.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whirlpool_Galaxy

You can find this near the handle of the Plough,

For comparison, my previous efforts, that involved a lot of manual picture taking and shivering in the cold, resulted in some much poorer images.

The Whirlpool galaxy is a very popular target for amateur astrophotographers. A much less popular target is the nearby M106. Despite being closer to us than the Whirlpool galaxy, it’s a good bit dimmer and appears to show a lot less structure. I’ve made several attempts to image this over the last month. The picture below is a combination of three nights worth of pictures, totalling about four hours’ exposure.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Messier_106

M106 is principally of interest to astronomers because of it’s contribution to setting the distance scale to nearby galaxies. The wikipedia article has some details. If I’ve understood this correctly, it goes something like this. Water MASERs emit radiation at a specific frequency. MASER clouds in M106 are bright enough that their doppler shift can be monitored. This allows their acceleration to be determined. This in turn determines their exact distance from the central galactic black hole. This absolute distance can be compared to their angular separation. From there it’s simple geometry to determine distance. Once this is known, other “standard candles”, such as Cepheid Variable stars, can be more accurately calibrated.

If you look just above M106 in the picture you’ll see a short, elongated, fuzzy blob. This is another galaxy, NGC 4248. The following Hubble image is quite beautiful.

And near the top of my picture, are yet another pair of galaxies, NGC 4231 and 4232. Here are some close up pictures.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:NGC_4231

One of the things I’ve mentioned before is that the Seestar isn’t very good at long exposures because it can’t fully compensate for the apparent rotation of the sky (it uses an alt-azimuth mount rather than an equatorial mount, for anyone who’s interested). As M106 is just such a long exposure I thought I’d do a short movie that shows the camera as it struggles to keep the galaxy in view. (You might need to enable insecure links in your browser to see this.) This is about 100x normal speed.

http://www.platitudes.org.uk/m106_edit.mkv

As you can see. I’ve been quite busy over the last few weeks.

Oh, and T Cor Bor still hasn’t exploded.

First Light With my New Scope

Over the last couple of years I’ve been struggling to do a little astrophotography on the cheap. I’ve used an entry level Newtonian with a second hand mirrorless camera, neither of which were designed for the purpose. However, the limitations of the equipment were beginning to show. Attempts to photograph the Virgo galaxy cluster and the Horsehead nebula proved fruitless. The scope and camera had to be controlled independently, so I had to sit beside them outside and monitor everything they do, manually taking individual pictures with no real idea how they would turn out.

So I bought myself one of these, a Seestar S50, one of the new generation of “smart” telescopes.

https://www.365astronomy.com/zwo-seestar-s50-all-in-one-smart-apo-refractor-telescope

It’s a bit more money than I’m used to spending on this hobby, but if my first night out with it is anything to judge by then I think it’ll be worth it. And in comparison to some, it’s relatively cheap.

https://www.365astronomy.com/celestron-origin-intelligent-home-observatory-6-rasa-smart-telescope

It’s about two feet tall, including the tripod, and weighs roughly the same as a bag of sugar. So you can pick it up with one hand and take it anywhere. It contains a highly quality lens system, a low noise camera sensor, a dew heater to prevent it misting up, a dual narrow-band light pollution filter, a solar filter, an auto-focuser, tracking software and image stacking software. Everything is controlled from a single phone app that, fortunately for me, is almost idiot proof.

I used to spend a considerable part of each night just trying to get things in focus. Sometimes I’d have to repeat each session multiple times just to be sure of getting the focus spot on. The Seestar app has an auto-focus button. I just press that and, as if by magic, within a few seconds everything is in perfect focus.

It seems to have quickly become a tradition that the first thing everybody does with the Seestar S50 is photograph either Andromeda or the Orion Nebula, and I’m no exception. so let’s get them out of the way.

andrOrion2

These are pretty much how they came out of the box. I’ve brightened them a bit, probably too much in the case of Andromeda, but otherwise haven’t done any post processing on them. The Seestar also let’s you save the individual image files so that you can do your own selection and stacking rather than rely on its algorithms. I haven’t got around to that yet. The one night I’ve spent with it gave me more data than I previously got in a month. It’ll take me weeks to work my way through it all.

Just to prove that it really could take the pictures that I couldn’t take before. Here’s part of the Virgo cluster of galaxies and the famous horsehead nebula. Again, I’ve cropped and brightened the images very quickly, with no real attention to detail.

The big white blob at the top of the horsehead picture is the star Alnitak, the left hand star in Orion’s belt.

One of the downsides of the Seestar is also illustrated in the horsehead picture. If you look carefully at the right hand side of that image, you’ll see vertical streaks running at an increasing angle down the right hand side. This is because of the type of mount that it uses. It can go up and down and left to right. This allows it to track the positions of objects in the sky. However, if you think about it, objects don’t just appear to move across the sky, they also appear to rotate. The Seestar can’t fully compensate for this, with the result that longer exposures cause the effect you see. There’s a well known way around this, but as this was my first night out I wasn’t going to try anything elaborate.

A couple of more galaxies, Bode’s galaxies and the Triangulum galaxy.

There are a couple of lines across the bottom of the left hand image of Bode’s galaxies. This isn’t a telescope artefact this time, but a plane flying across one of the frames. When I do my own stacking I’ll get rid of this frame.

And now a couple of old favourites, the Double Cluster in Perseus and T Corona Borealis – our unexploded star. The Double Cluster picture is way better than anything I’ve previously taken with my old setup. Despite being one of the largest and brightest objects in the sky, my old telescope often had difficulty finding the Double Cluster. The Seestar uses a technique called “plate solving”. Essentially it compares what it sees with its internal database of stars, figures out where it’s pointing, and moves to the desired location. All with no user intervention whatever.

T Cor Bor has disappeared from the evening sky in the west, but if you wait until about 4 am it rises above the eastern horizon again.

And finally, that sun-with-a-bird picture. This time I’ve included another sun-with-a-bird picture from the next day. When you’re imaging the sun, especially when you take movies over a couple of minutes, it’s actually surprisingly common to see a plane or a flock of birds transit the sun’s disk. Notice how the sunspots move with the sun’s rotation from one day to the next.

My other scope has about ten times the light gathering power of the Seestar, so it isn’t redundant. And it’s got one thing that the Seestar doesn’t have, an eyepiece, so you can actually look at the sky with your eyes rather than a phone. But for sheer convenience and it’s ability to record images, the new box is quite unbelievable. I might even try driving a few miles out of town to escape some of the light pollution in my back yard.

But I’ve saved the best bit for last. As it’s controlled by a single, dedicated, phone app, and you can operate it over wi-fi, I can sit in the comfort of my living room in shorts and t-shirt, glass of wine in hand, and tell the telescope exactly what I want it to do. Then I just sit back and watch as the images appear on my screen. No more shivering for hours outside in the cold. In fact, the telescope barely needs me at all.